As Lisbon's biggest market is transformed into a gourmet food hall, we take a look at the best places to eat in Portugal's capital, a city renowned for its seafood – and custard tarts
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• A Lisbon food tour
Within weeks of its opening in May 2014, the new food court at Mercado da Ribeira – Lisbon's biggest fresh food market – has become a firm favourite among Lisboans. The first permanent foodie venture for Time Out, the market hosts a total of 35 kiosks – all branded in the same smart black and white signage and selling regional specialities, including Azeitão sheep's cheese, plates of ham from the Alentejo, and custard tarts from award-winning cafe Aloma. Tins of sardines in beautiful retro packaging at the Conserveira de Lisboa, wines from Garrafeira Nacional or chocolates from Arcádia make great presents to take home. In addition, five top chefs have restaurants here, offering clever dishes playing with Portuguese flavours from €5 (marinated mackerel with gazpacho at Alexandre Silva). Settle yourself at one of the high wooden benches and it would be very easy to while away a few hours eating your way around Portugal's culinary highlights. The original fish, fruit and vegetable stalls on the other side of the huge 19th century building still sell their wares every day, except Sunday, until lunchtime.
• Avenida 24 de Julho, open from 10am to midnight (Sunday to Wednesday), 10am to 2am (Thursday to Saturday)